MY SISTER AT THE WINDOW

It is a narrow, thin memory, barely surviving, buried in my long, overloaded memory. My sister, with teenage friends, somewhere in Boston. They had gone to stay in town –we always called it “in town” — and, together, at a hotel. No moral compromises, no boys around, all girls, together.

I wish I’d asked her about it while she was alive — asked her, was there a time when you went off to downtown Boston and stayed somewhere in a hotel?

I picture one of those old hotels, maybe some lost places, like the Avery or the Essex or the Turraine that once stood ornate and tall deep in the city’s core. I’m imagining a time when the newer, shinier hostelries were yet to be built.

And what I remember hearing my sister tell my mother is that she went to the window in the dead of night and, though the city was sleeping, she could hear sounds –I was going to say, ‘the sound of silence.’ But, yes, it was the sound of a seemingly empty and asleep city’s breathing — just that mysterious, constant sound of far, far off traffic or wind or hidden life within a somnolent city.

And I might have thought about this as I woke in the hotel at Logan Airport this past Monday night, staying just a night in a hotel in the city of my birth. It is always a strange experience to stay in a hotel, like a visitor or stranger, in a city you once –or even presently — call home. The airport had, as always, been frantically busy with rushing strangers and vehicles and comings and goins, but I woke at 12:10 a.m. — I knew I must wake in just hours for a flight to Tampa where I roost now and would be constantly, or almost constantly experiencing a frightening kind of dementia, forgetting that I was due to fly (back) to Tampa, not “up” to Boston, where I was at that moment (and feeling like a stranger) and where I had been for two days that felt, at that moment, like a week. Perhaps it was because what I really wanted to do was to go down the elevator to the empty lobby and catch a taxi to my childhood home, walk to the door at 210 Neponset Avenue, pull out my key and let myself in and creep up the stairs to where I was supposed to be sleeping — where my former childhood self was sleeping — in the top floor bunks with the sloaping ceiling where my brother Bill, who I just saw in repose at a funeral home, would be sleeping in the front and my twin brothers in back — and I would go and quietly slip iinto my metal and spring bed pushed into the corner by the window. It would be dark and silent in the house, my mother and father on the second floor where, though so small, there is a bathroom and three bedrooms off the hallway. And my sister’s room would still the one at the top of the stairs and it would become my room once she married in June of 1959.

I would go to sleep in my narrow bed in those”top floor” rooms where my three brothers slept….

I still lived there, didn’t I? That was still the Wayland home, wasn’t it? Everybody was alive, weren’t they?

But I was back in Boston because my brother Bill had gone to sleep forever.

In truth, as I stood looking down at the silent, empty airport roadways and overpasses, all brightly lit – but empty — I could hear nothing except the air conditioning, because rarely can you open a window in a modern hotel. I would go back to the bed and, though having no memory of drifting off, go back to sleep to await the 5:30 alarm getting me up for the 7 :15 a.m. flight — to fly to Tampa. Why was I going to Tampa? This was home. I was home….

And my family is across water and fields and tall buildings in that house at 210 Neponset Avenue which I had just seen that day — but occupied now by strangers. I was coming from the funeral home where the service had been held for my oldest brother whom I had just seen lying in a casket right across the street from the former site of the Adams Street Theater, now an apartment building.

But, if it truly happened, if only I could remember more or could have asked my sister — who died in September of 2016 — just what she and her friends were doing in that hotel. Had they, in fact, traveled to another city, not Boston, with some group like The Catholic Daughters? Or perhaps this was a high school graduation trip?

I will never know, because I cannot remember.

But I know that she, and maybe the other girl or girls who were her roommates, excited to be in the heart of a city, any city, and be up talking and laughing to the wee hours, had perhaps finally turned out the lights for bed and gone to a window that, in the old days, you could still open. They might have been on the seventh or the eighth floor. And they would have leaned out the window overlooking perhaps a street, perhaps an alley.

Perhaps my sister was the only one awake, a young teenager having not yet met the man she would marry, perhaps kneeling at the open window alone, listening–and fascinated by the sound coming from a seemingly sleeping city. Life out there, stirring at ever hour.

Life. My sister at the window, alone. Her name was Anne. And she called my brother Bill when she was dying. And he had said, “I was supposed to be first!”

She would have laughed. She is gone. Now he is gone, too.

But I remember her now, at 10:47 p.m., November 13, 2024.

Alone. In a dark room of sleeping girls. Listening to the city in the dead of night.

AUTUMN, WALKING TREES, AND GOLDEN GLORY AT THE LAST MILE

Joe Barron is heir and sole owner of a renowned little establishment occupying a square patch of earth on the East Boston/Revere, Massachusetts line, built of brick, masonry, neon and plastic and its close cousin vinyl, featuring a vintage original marble bar top, operating for 102 American years, doing business as The Last Mile (named thus principally because its founder, Joe’s great grandfather, was granted a governor’s reprieve sparing him the electric chair for the charge of 1st degree murder — and because the place was once thought to be exactly a mile from Logan International Airport (off by about 4 1/2 miles–the person making that calculation was plainly guessing while drinking). It began, given its era of origin, under a candy store, the entrance through the bulkhead in back, for it was a speakeasy until the end of Prohibition.

The Last Mile was, on October 12, 2024, the scene of a small autumn gathering for “regulars” and any souls in need of a year-end taste of what the poet Keats called that “season of mists and mellow fruitfulness.”

The chosen venue was the 30×30 patch of dirt, crab grass and rutted macadam out behind the bar. Not exactly the Tuillieries or Kew Gardens, up against the tumbling stockade fence and what litter Joe hadn’t been able to clean up stuck in the crevices. But everybody, when things were in full swing, was loving it and getting along, a kind of fall reunion and celebration of the dying year, before the only two back lot trees — a scrawny old maple and a very robust but no less old oak — become bare as old swamp stags casting November shadows.

We weren’t making much noise, but as a courtesy, Joe invited to the festivities the guy who lives in an old house on the other side of the stockade fence, a body and fender guy named Terry Garagiola who has a shop in Lynn. He came with his wife Teresa and his mother Angalina.

Joe, 77 years old, was up from his long-time permanent dwelling on Key Biscayne, Florida. He walked through life now under a grand breaking wave of silver gray hair, sometimes a little shaggy at the collar of his expensive shirts, looking a little paunchy this October, wearing his usual gold chains and wearing a couple of expensive-looking ring and a third one being his East Boston High School class ring. The shirt had orange blossoms on it, a Florida touch. He has always seemed the kind of guy you used to see hanging around the old Esquire Bar or the Squire Lounge. I found out, in fact, that he knew the famous Revere stripper named Taquila who famously used a boa constrictor in her act. We heard, many years ago,that he had dated her, and often took the snake along in a Styrofoam cooler in the back seat of his Elderado. One night while they were having burgers at the Adventure Car Hop, the snake got out and came crawling under the seat, right up between Joe’s legs. Taquila was able to get her “baby” –named Monty The Boa –quickly under control. Good thing!

We always wondered how Joe managed to operate a bar, since he’s got a belfry full of butterflies. We privately believe his lawyer in Boston handles the finances. Deano, his bartender, orders the liquor and runs the place day to day. Joe’s place in Key Biscayne is just the product of some good gambling revenue from a Fort Lauderdale casino he owned and maybe a few junk bonds and a couple of junk bars and laundromats he also owned down there and sold, and maybe old family money supplements his basically simple life. (When managing a combination laundromat and strip joint got too complicated, he sold it after making a fair profit. “Too many nuts,” he said of his sudsy lascivious clientele.) There’s rumors of a lingering Florida partnership with dubious Miami elements, remnants of the Trafficanti empire, that we all hope are false. If true, if he never stiffs them, they might come looking for him at The Mile.

It was great, looking around, seeing everybody.

Joe was accompanied by a new “companion” by the name of Pippa Goldflower. He simply wanted to be back, for the first time in perhaps ten years, for a New England autumn. The weather held for him. Pippa came with him, eager to experience a New England autumn as well.

This Pippa was an interesting, slightly mysterious, decidedly sophisticated lady, said to have been born in Nevada, raised in Latin America and England, daughter of a flamboyant diplomat, and a little flamboyant in her own right. She was younger than Joe, but had long white hair with magenta highlights — yes, I made so bold as to ask and she confirmed that that was the color — flowing floral skirt, lavender top — a riot of colors for every season and every state of life! Whether she was Joe’s girlfriend or not, we don’t know. Joe told us he met her in Key West while taking one of his periodic excursions down from Miami to watch the sunset at the nation’s southernmost point and drink at Sloppy Joe’s. Along the ledge over the back of the bar now, you see an array of conch shells Joe collected on the Key’s shoreline over the past year. We think this was Pippa’s idea, and probably her collection. We assumed therefore that Pippa, habitue of the world’s dazzling ports and stylish avenues didn’t find the Last Mile and its dumpy back lot too low rent for her tastes — not if she was willing to decorate it with shells. And we further figured that Joe must have charmed her nearly to death (Joe had that effect on a certain kind of woman) — or she was just slumming.

There was no champagne or vintage beverages for this confab. The cooler was full of Model, Budweiser,Miller, Bud Lite, a few Heineken. Nothing too fancy for wine, either — Almadine, Yellow Tail rose’and chardonnay, and four jugs of apple cider and a little lemonade. These were on three card tables along with what passed for hors de’oeuvres — cheddar cheese and crackers, salami, pepperoni, little wieners, pickles, pastry. Stuff you could get at Stop&Shop up the street, and Dunkin Donuts. Anything fancier would have ruined it. Keep it Simple is Joe’s motto.

Knox, the artist, came down from his apartment above the bar with his usual alcohol concoction known as a Blushing Monk. He was probably breaking Joe’s rules, drinking the hard stuff on the property out of doors. But this was a special occasion. Joe had put out folding beach chairs, about a six or seven.

This back lot was all that The Mile had for a parking lot, but everybody parked on the street on this Saturday.

When I arrived, Kenny Foy was there, Athena Leroy, the Greek American realtor from Lowell who had her little epiphany at The Mile and always came back, usually on Saturdays. Bo Cherry Burkhardt was there with Charlie Simmonetti. And, of course, Sticky Sammartino and Jackie The Crow Kantner. Willy Hartrey who walked up from his house a few blocks away.

A nice little gathering. Very modest. Cozy.

Technically, Joe Barron needed a permit to do it, because serving food and beverages outdoors was not part of his Massachusetts common victualers license. He got a quick permit from Revere City Hall, where he has connections. As noted, The Revere/East Boston line runs right through the little bar, one of its charming claims, entirely verified, that put it in some guidebooks. I never noticed the white town line that ran wall-to-wall across the old tile and well-worn pine planks of the Mile’s well-oiled floor.

Also Joe could have rented the Lithuanian Club hall. But this was happily working class impromptu, Joe’s surrender to a small, romantic impulse. He just got a little sentimental about autumn and his childhood memories of Columbus Day and all that — playing halfback in high school football over at Chelsea Stadium in autumns of yore –and every autumn memory you can think of (the old “cool, crisp days” thing and the early darkness and scuffing through the leaves). For him, it was perfect just to be in good company under the scrawny little maple out there, which had just enough foliage left to spread some color. The oak was doing okay, but very autumn looked like it would be its last for that maple, but the leaves –you could probably count them — kept sprouting green in spring. Thank God for that.

As for the oak tree, not a lot of color, as oaks go. But the leaves were turning dull yellowish brown and would fall and still be around on the snow all winter, and Joe stood under it and recited “The Village Blacksmith,” by Longfellow. (“Under the spreading chestnut tree, the village smithy stands….”) He intoned it in a grandly resonant voice for everybody to hear! Twice, in fact, after a requested encore from the Garagiolas. ( Once was enough for most of us.) And there were plenty of acorns in the dirt crunching under foot and on the macadam to make it feel, if you used your imagination, like we were in Concord or Lexington — or some little village in northern New England. Joe happened to know through his mother that the gas station up the street had once, in fact, been the site of a blacksmith’s stable until the mid-Twenties. He cherished those memories of old geography.

Joe told us he learned that Longfellow poem as a kid, at the bidding of that same mother who loved it, and he had recited it before his 7th grade class at St. Anthony’s elementary. In fact, he’d made himself look a little like a poet at this gathering, wearing a tweed jacket over his Florida regalia. At one point he had his arm around The Man Outside which is what we call this guy who was kind of the resident poet — and all we can ever get from him in the way of a name is the Man Outside because (as I once told you) he stands outside the Lounge all the time smoking French cigarettes, then comes inside, sits at a back table and write his poems.

A week before the event, Joe pinned up a notice about the gathering in the hall by the bathrooms where people like to keep adding flourishes to Knox’s portrait of the Maltese Hairdresser. GOLDEN GLORY TIL THE GLOAMING, the poster read. OCTOBER 12, NOON TIL DUSK (or the gloaming) OUT BEHIND THE BAR. We initially speculated that this Pippa Goldflower looked like the type to come up with word “the gloaming.” That definitely wasn’t in Joe’s vocabulary, even if he liked watching the sun go down — a habit probably born of watching sunsets on Revere Beach.

Joe had invited an Irish guy who played the concertina along Revere Beach Boulevard all year long, earning enough to keep body and soul together to get a little food at Kelly’s Roast Beef. He brought his own folding chair and sat and played. We all put copious donations in the guy’s overturned cap. I think Joe dusted him off pretty good, too.

Folks in those folding chairs, or standing around the card tables were also drifting over by the dumpster when they wanted to talk politics or sports or smoke. The dumpster was green and relatively new. Knox had long ago declared it to be a work of contemporary art. A Motif #1

“I wish I’d designed it,” he said. “Full of civilization’s refuse.” For the rest of us, it was just a dumpster. I lifted the lid at least once to deposit some of the trash we were generating that didn’t go in the recycle bin Joe had set out. Joe was very environmentally conscious.

Somebody noted that The Outside Man had posted his latest work, as he always did, over the urinals in the men’s room. He’d written an autumn haiku:

Puddles golden reflection

Grackles at the gloaming

Their blackness

Sticky Sammartino read it out loud as he emptied his bladder.

“They call this a ‘ hey you,’ right?”

“A haiku,” I said. I was taking care of business at the adjacent cracked and ancient vertical porcelain trough. I decided then and there that it must have been the Outside Man, not ole Poppa, who gave Joe the word Gloaming for his poster. I’m pretty sure of that now.

“I don’t get it,” Sticky said of the haiku.

“Me neither,” I said. “But it’s art. And you know what, Sticky? A famous artist named Marcel Duchamp once made a work of art out of a urinal”

“Now that I can appreciate,” Sticky said, zipping up.

The Last Mile may not be much, but it does have two urinals. Hence, two works of art; three, if you include the dumpster.

“This poet of ours got a thing for birds?” Sticky ask. “Maybe he’ll write something for Jackie the Crow.”

We went back outside to the gathering — to the Golden Glory til the Gloaming. I had another cider. It was good stuff — from New Hampshire.

There was a breeze, no wind. Just fine. Clear skies, a few puffy clouds. A nice Autumn Saturday.

“What do we know about poetry or art? “I said to Sticky as we both downed our cider (I’m pretty sure Sticky had put some rum in his.) “We’re just guys on our Last Mile.”

And pretty soon, I was thinking –don’t ask me why — about beauty…of poetry and Keats’s “mellow mists and fruitfulness..”, of that scrawny little maple with its scarred trunk, leaning against the stockade fence. We wish our poet laureate would take that as a subject, too. We all love that tree. A Charlie Brown maple.

Sticky, doing another cider, took a crack at a haiku, and said out loud:

Skinny, crooked little goldie,

waiting for a big, fat bird.

Haiku don’t come any worse than that.

The scrawny, sickly maple was an old but surviving remnant of the walking trees (as Joe Barron called them) — the maples that, years by year, he claimed had marched –yes, marched, or walked — away from this very neighborhood where he grew up a block away, not far from the beach. Trees uprooting and marching away!! A childhood reverie of the kind that could only pass through Joe’s noggin.

“I swear that’s how it happened,” he said. “I saw them one midnight, leaning out my window on Blarney Street. I was maybe five. Maybe it was Christmas Eve and I was waiting for Santa Clause. They just up and march away, probably to Vermont, to be with relatives, right?”

Yeah, right.

I said, “Don’t the gospels say something about a man regaining his sight from Jesus and seeing people who look like walking trees?”

“Yes! Yes, indeed,” said Joe, who, I knew, was reading the Bible these days, getting, as it were, ‘right with the Lord.’ He believed in miracles. And walking trees.

Amen to that. Meanwhile…

Joe, after three beers, shared a few more childhood visions too strangely complicated to relate. He was enjoying his cider (definitely spiked.)

Owning a little bar straddling a town line probably just seemed to Joe as a young man like a romantic way to keep the family heritage going for his father and grandfather who had owned the joint before him, going back to 1922. He’d run it as a luncheonette but there was a speakeasy around the back, down the bulkhead and in the basement. Now Great grandson Joe fought every effort to close it or buy it. We were glad for that.

Meanwhile, for this son of an Irish mother and Italian father, telling tales, having vision, fantasies was a way of being. Not a bad one, either.

Everybody who was coming was out there by two o’clock, under the scrawny maple and spreading oak (or chestnut), including a couple of local boxers and wrestlers, including a female wrestler known as Christy the Crusher, last seen talking to The Outside Man. The cheese and crackers and cider donuts were going fast. Lots of good conversation.

I asked Joe what drew him away from Boston to Florida back in his thirties.

“I loved the song, ‘Moon Over Miami’,” he said. I go down there, and sure enough, there’s a big bright moon over Miami. I fell in love, had a nice girl and put down roots.”

“So why didn’t you get married?”

“She took off. And the moon took off, too. Every time I looked up, she wasn’t there anymore.”

I was drinking some cider, sober, being a non-drinker, but enchanted by the moment. I said, “maybe they’re up in Vermont, the moon and the girl. They ‘ve got moonlight and ladies up there.”

Joe nodded. I don’t think he wasn’t exactly sober anymore. He probably figured I was drunk, too. I was talking like a drunk, that’s for sure. “You’re probably right.” he said. “And all them walking maples.”

“Up there with all their relatives,” Joe said. “How’s your life these days, Wayland?”

“It passes gently,” I said.

“Drink up,” Joe said, and tipped back his little plastic cup of cider. I saw him and Knox –after he polished off his Blushing Monk –freshening their cider with the bottle of Captain Morgan right inside the back door. Just as I suspected.

Pippa Goldflower was drinking wine and cranberry juice.

The Glory went on until, as advertised, the gloaming –when we set out a few candles in the cool purple remnants of daylight.. The Irishman and his concertina had departed by now. All was silence save a little rustling in the two threes.

Total darkness, typical of autumn, came early. Joe Barren and Pippa went inside, arm-in-arm. Everybody left, one by one. I watched a leaf twirl down through the dark from that lonely little maple. I wondered if, after its long life, it might finally walk away that night. Walk up to Vermont to be with all the other maples. I sat in the last folding chair and drank the last of the cider. The light was on in Knox’s apartment upstairs.

Joe Barron’s autumn celebration — and homecoming — was in the memory book.

I blew out the candles.

MOUNTAIN ELEGY

I once lived in the mountains of western North Carolina.

I have this from the North Carolina State Climate Office:

Torrential rainfall from remnants of Hurricane Helene capped off three days of extreme, unrelenting precipitation, which left catastrophic flooding and unimaginable damage in our Mountains and southern Foothills.

The Blue Ridge are hurting. I’m hearing — we are all hearing –of the horrible travail there — so much and so many nearly drowned in violent, brown, debris-bearing storm floods. Seems odd to many, I suppose, that a hurricane could climb a mountain and dump all its water there — and cause its considerable river waters to rampage and overflow so catastrophically.

It can, other storms have done so before, it did last week. But never to this degree. 150 plus dead. The toll will likely grow.

An utter and historic horror, according to the State Climate Office.

It was close to a worst-case scenario for western North Carolina as seemingly limitless tropical moisture, enhanced by interactions with the high terrain, yielded some of the highest rainfall totals – followed by some of the highest river levels, and the most severe flooding – ever observed across the region.

I came and went too soon from that beautiful region where North Carolina, Virginia and Tennesee come together. The time frame was fall to spring, 1997 into 1998. I probably never intended to stay there permanently and — oh, I might as well tell you — left sooner than I wanted largely because I couldn’t make a living there. This was because it was, to a great degree, a resort area. I couldn’t earn money comparble to the cost of living — that being the bane of long-time locals who for generations have grown Christmas trees, worked trades, worked in factories, did what they could, got by, called it home.

To many in New England or around the nation, those patches of the country near Thomas Wolfe’s native Ashville and the region where I once lived 153 miles to the east in little Banner Elk are unknown terrain. They may not have known there are North Carolina mountains.

I lived in a wood hillside chalet-style house next to rows of saplings and partially grown fraser firs destined to be Christmas trees, nurtured by scores of local nurserymen. They rose slowly up beside a steeply sloaping street called Cynthia Lane. That was my street. As I looked out at those trees, I imagined them one day festooned with colorful lights, reflected in the sparkling eyes of a child on Christmas morning. It was good on Christmas morning to see so many trees still standing for Christmases future. They are harvested every seven years.

I’m a New Englander and knew ultimately I would want to go all the way home from Florida where I’d been living– for a second time — from 1990 to 1997. (So, what am I doing back in Florida, five years and, once again, a thousand miles from home? Another long story. I guess some of us have restless hearts, or are capable of seeking the geographic cure.)

In truth, my mountain time, while pleasant, was sometimes, during the winter, trecherous among steep, icy inclines, mountain highways and trails, rocks and pines — always, at a radio station, hearing and being embraced by the antic and narrative and welcome strains of country music.

I don’t know that I was listening to anything the afternoon , heading downhill in traffic, bound for Banner Elk from Boone, when I gently slid right off the road in my old Volvo. I didn’t go far — about ten feet, and to rest, though a bit unnerved.

It all remains wrapped around a place deep in my mind. And on my mind now are the region’s suffering.

One evening walking along Beacon Street in Boston beside the Public Garden and across from the famous “Cheers” bar, the Bull&Finch Pub, a woman called out to me from her van as she was stuck in traffic. She’d seen my t-shirt for the Mast Store in Valle Crucis, near Banner Elk. She knew the region. “I love Blowing Rock,” she said — another of the charming towns in the area.

Yes indeed, she knew the area.

There is, to a limited degree, a ski resort industry there on Beech and Sugar Mountains that attracts non-locals. But they were always having to make snow for the ski trails. I seem to recall some crystals from the snow-making apparatus blowing toward my hillside home on some occasions. That’s quite possibly as much a reverie as a real memory. But, yes, I do recall that you could tell when they were “making snow” which does not always fall naturally in enough abundance in the Blue Ridge to support the skiing public.

But, again, they get by, those ski trail folks.

Beach Mountain. Sugar Mountain and Hawk’s Nest ski areas — they are all there. Hawk’s Nest is where my son, during his first-ever attempt at snowboarding, wiped out on the last run of the night (after they had prematurely taken down the orange plastic protective netting), slid headlong into a trench dug for a downhill pipe line, slammed into the pipe and ruptured his spleen, landing in Wautauga County Hospital in Boone for emergency surgery. It’s where the young members of the ski patrol were so good to him in the wake of his accident, coming to visit him. It’s where I spent a night half-watching Godzilla movies in a waiting room, barely sleeping, waiting for his deeply upset mother to arrive from South Carolina, arriving near dawn. I had walked down a corridor, barely awake, as the elevator door opened and Renee stepped out and said, “where is he?” Poor Renee, she was probably mad at me, but, more than anything, worried about our son — who recovered just fine, thank God.

O yes, that is a memory. A mountain memory.

Currently, The Climate Office is recording that 16.67 inches of rain have fallen on Boone.

Memories are spilling out of me the way water is now still rushing down a mountainside.

Some great, proud and independent people live in Boone and the Banner Elk area. Tiny Lees-McCrea College is located in Banner Elk. Appalachian State University is in Boone. We’ve started to hear about its football program, but I mostly recall time spent in its fine library. I worked for little WECR-AM and FM radio in Newland, which, at that time (and perhaps now) had studios located in a triple-wide trailer down the road from the Great Eastern Divide. I worked the best I could, selling advertising — not my strength –to Boone auto dealers and merchants with Buddy Carpenter, a former Trailways Bus driver who had formerly been road manager for The Marshall Tucker Band. (I learned from Buddy that Marshall Tucker was a blind piano tuner in whose Spartenburg, NC storage area the band, in its formative years, practiced and developed their distinctive country rock repertoire.) Buddy also did the morning show. A young local woman who did the show with Buddy left to work at a local factory where I believe she was offered more money.

This was that kind of place –unglamorous, real, full of native-bred Scotch-Irish folks ekeing out a living around the city of Newland, way above sea level. Sadly I’ve forgotten that young woman’s name as, I’m sure, she’s forgotten mine, and forgotten me. It was, after all, twenty-seven years ago.

But I’m thinking of her and hoping Helene has not upended her life — hers and the lives of her family members. I’ll bet she has children by now and didn’t seem like the kind of person who would move away from native turf. As for Buddy Carpenter, sadly, I don’t even know if he’s still alive. I do hope you are well, Buddy. (Maybe the last remnants of the Marshall Tucker Band could locate him for me, tell me of his fate. Buddy once told me how founding band member Toy Caldwell was on board his bus during one tour, working out lyrics of the song, “Heard it in a Love Song” on a paper bag which he gave to Buddy and which Buddy planned to donate to the Rock&Roll Hall of Fame.)

During that North Carolina stay, I owned an old Zenith radio I’d picked up at a yard sale somewhere and I recall hearing that young woman who worked with Buddy speak my name out of it, referring to my reference, the former afternoon, to a program to adopt horses in need of permanent homes. ( The information was on a press release; I was filling time during a newscast in which I had few reliable sources of real news.) I’ll always remember her saying something like, “Yeah, Greg was talking about that program….” It was every bit, if not more special than seeing and hearing myself as a reporter on TV — hearing my name, spoken by a nice young moutain dwelling woman (was her name Karen? Sue? Mary?) and spilling out over the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Sounds crazy, I know. But every little thing during those mere nine months (or so) had meaning for me.

Now I’m hearing that all roads in Western NC should be considered closed…

And that what has happened there should be considered…

on par with eastern North Carolina’s worst hurricane from six years ago.

There were, in fact, a great deal of Florida license plates on cars that appeared during the summer months in the mountains. There are gated communities nestled in the mountain ridges where well-to-do Florida residents escape Florida’s summer heat. I was told locals had a mild disdain for these transient visitors because “they poke on the roads and complain about the food.”

Of course, the visitors always bring money to the areas they’re accused of despoiling. And many nice folks appear among seasonal visitors the world over.

For instance…

I worshiped at little St. Bernadette’s Church in the town of Linville, North Carolina where one Sunday I saw retired, legendary Miami Dolphins coach Don Shula coming up the aisle from communion. I couldn’t believe my eyes! And his former quarterback and Hall of Famer Bob Griese, who led the Dolphins to three consecutive Super Bowl appearances –winning two of them (the first of which capped off an undefeated, untied season, a feat that has not been duplicted in the NFL) also worshipped at St. Bernadettes.

Griese sat down with his wife in the pew in front of me one Sunday, turned and offered me, at the appropriate moment, the handshake that is called, “the kiss of peace” (which, in my role as a liturgical curmudgeon, I find superfluous and toucy-feely but which I could not wait to exchange that Sunday as Bob G. turned and grasped my hand. It was the hand that had thrown 192 touchdowns. And the legendary quarterback said, “God Bless Y ou.”

Blessed by Bob Griese! One day up in the mountains of western North Carolina.

From the Climate Office:

It’s no exaggeration to liken this to a Florence-level disaster for the Mountains, since the apparent rarity of the rainfall amounts and the impacts they produced – including large stretches of highways underwater and a plea from the NC Department of Transportation…

By a “Florence-level disaster”, I take the climate officials to be referring to the November, 1966 flooding of the raging Arno River which swamped and did horrible damage to the city of Florence and hundreds its art treasures. I had visited Florence — my one and only time so far — the summer before.

In the mountains, the masterpieces are all natural.

Beyond the glass behind the altar and tabernacle at St. Bernadettes is Grandfather Mountain, so named because, as you look at it, you see in the rocky outcroppings the enormous face of an old man turned up toward the sky. You can see God if you choose. You see him for miles as you approach the region.

Yes, for a brief, memorable time, I was part of that western North Carolina community. Coming and going so quickly, being easily identified by my lack of Southern accent as a damned Yankee. I’m sure no one there — and Bob Griese, wherever he is and whether or not he still comes to the region — remembers me. No matter, I’ve kept his blessing.

But I am praying for that region now, so utterly tormented by the rampaging, north-traveling remnants of a huge, millenial hurricane.

The North Carolina State Climate Office has concluded…

While the full extent of this event will take years to document – not to mention, to recover from – we can make an initial assessment of the factors that made for such extreme rainfall, the precipitation totals and other hazards, and how this storm compares with some of the worst for the mountains and for our state as a whole.

Have the young Christmas trees survived in Avery and Wautaga Counties?

It may be a bleak Christmas in the high country. I hope not. I spent a very nice Christmas there.

In fact, the greatest damage may be in neighboring counties and across the state line into Tennessee — death and destruction from raging water.

I pray for them as well.

May there be deliverance for the whole region by the time snow falls over the wide, welcoming beautiful face of that celestial mountain grandfather.

SAD AND HAPPY FIGURES RECEDING IN THE REAL AND CINEMATIC DISTANCE IN ART AND LIFE

Feel like I’ve indulged in this meditation, or something nearly like it, before.

It has to do with figures, mostly meaning people, viewed as they recede in the distance. It is a familiar trope of Hollywood movies, sometimes sad, sometimes happy at the end of a drama — the hero or the lovers together or a disappointed lover alone walking off down a beach or John Wayne, at the end of The Searchers, walking off alone as the door to the house closes and THE END appears. In a John Steinbeck story called “The Mountains” in his book, The Red Pony, a child has a distant view of a man who’d been a visitor riding off into the mountains.

Edward Arlington Robinson captured such a moment and such thoughts, meditated on them over and over during the long poem, “Man Against the Sky” that begins:

Between me and the sunset, like a dome  
Against the glory of a world on fire,  
Now burned a sudden hill,  

Bleak, round, and high, by flame-lit height made higher,  
With nothing on it for the flame to kill
Save one who moved and was alone up there  
To loom before the chaos and the glare  
As if he were the last god going home  

Unto his last desire.  

Well, I’m traveling and constantly saying hello and goodbye to people along the way. But in Hazelton, Pennsylvania, my companion Diane and I checked into a motel and then went looking for a place to have dinner. We pulled into a rather plain and ugly parking lot in front of what looked like a restaurant, but it turned out to be an ice cream place. That wouldn’t do. So we sat checking the internet on our phones in search of another address of another possible eatery. It was dinner time, or just after it in some households.

Now, I’ve been living in Florida, a very flat state with few exceptions, those being up in the panhandle. There are no mountains or notable hills — true hills. This section of Pennsylvania, by contrast, had mountains — be they the Poconos or some stretch of the Appalacian range. The motel looked off toward mountains.

The parking lot where we’d paused was ugly, as noted, and had a strange dip in a break between strip centers where one could drive or walk to a lower parking beyond which there was a steep hill topped by a neighborhood of houses.

As we sat idling in the car, a young boy of about twelve emerged from the ice cream shop with what was certainly his little sister. They commenced to walk toward that macadam dip, probably bound for those house. The boy had a bundle, probably ice cream, destined for the dessert table of one of th ose houses where parents and maybe other siblings happily awaited this post-dinner ice cream feast, or so I imagined.

The little girl — the little sister — appeared to be about six or seven. She was pretty, wore a dress, had long hair and she was…marching! Yes, her happy stride, holding her brother’s hand suggested delighted expectations – for ice cream and for all of her still innocent life. She was marching along with big brother who was just walking, probably kind of used to the way little sister liked to happily muse and march along in life. I watched them, yes, recede from view as they headed down that black tar gully and out of sight. And I said…I’ll remember that picture.

But, as we went to drive away from that parking lot, there suddenly appeared, unexpectedly to one who for five y ears now has dwelt where the last view of anyone or anything is on a flat plane — a fond, heartening, distant vision:

The young boy and his high-stepping, pretty little sister appeared again, side-by-side with their ice cream bundle, rising distantly up that hill toward those houses, small figures now, destined to vanish from my view. But there they were, a distant, receding vision, destined to vanish from my happy view of them and from that moment — forever. I wished I could have followed them, seen the rest of their life’s drama — how life would treat both of them, praying for the very best for them as they climbed that hill, getting smaller and smaller.

They will always be walking — her happily marching, him with his bundle — and that glimpse of them will always linger in my memory. Yes that movies will always be running in my mind..

without my ever seeing on the screen of my memory the words…

THE END

LIKE GLASS

Summer 2024 everything moving quickly, too quickly, toward its outer edges. Chaos, as usual, all around. Sameness. So much sameness. And fear.

I’m thinking of last summer — borne backward, against the current, by easier memories — to when I spent all of July in Upstate New York; Rotterdam Junction, to be precise, in flight from the Florida heat that I could not escape this year.

I had stayed at a friend’s house, just up a steep little protective grassy bluff from the Mohawk River, just down from Lock#9. It is a serene, fairly wide stretch traveled by the occasional cabin cruiser likely bound for the Hudson River where the Mohawk flows into it. There is a grape arbor and a shed by a fence. My friend built a little porch on the shed, facing the river.

There used to be a little boat, if I recall correctly, in a little shaded opening of trees down the slope and near the water’s edge. It was — again, if I recall correctly — gone last year, as was the little pier my friend once had for that boat. Getting on in years, he might have tired of maintaining either, and seldom, if ever got out onto the water for fishing or leisure. But he also could not bring himself to move himself and his wife away from this humble riverside haven where he’d lived happily for so many years.

I’ve never been out on the Mohawk, but loved being near it.

If I were my friend, I couldn’t have moved, either. (He did, in fact, once move to Florida, but wound up selling his mobil home down there for far, far less than its value, and hastening back to the realm of seasons, snow, ice, complex family memories. Back to the river. )

During my month on the river, on a pleasant but unaccountably anxious July evening, I wrote, simply:

The Mohawk tonight, as the light dies.

Good to be near it, to stand on the cool grass

Reflecting, on all that can be shattered.

A life, a river

Like glass.

DRIFTING MOUNTAIN CLOUDS

This was around 1996. Probably the fall.

I was sitting in the small library of little Lees-McCrea College in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina in the town of Banner Elk. I was just browsing, using up some time. I’ll always go in search of a library. A college library, however small, is usually rich in the better books and even richer periodicals. Under the best of circumstances, libraries are still quiet places. This one was quiet. Maybe I would learn something. I was doing a lot of thinking, too.

I was also in between broadcast jobs, thinking of leaving the business, uncertain of my next move. I’d traveled up from Florda after leaving my TV job there, and was halfway back to what I will always call home — Massachusetts, especially Boston, for better or worse. I was living with a group of people (long story) and working at a little radio station which I liked, but being required to sell advertisement in addition to being on the air. I didn’t like visiting merchants and auto dealers selling ads. I like meeting people –especially Southern people — but didn’t like or feel competent about figuring out how to convince them to spend money, then write up a contract.

Suddenly, as I sat reading and thinking, what appeared to be smoke began drifting by the window and between the library building and the neighboring campus building. For a fraction of a second, I was alarmed -but then, consoled and quietly beguiled.

For this was not smoke. These were clouds. None of the few other people in the library seemed to think the sight unusual. We were in the mountains, after all, high up among some low drifting clouds. I suddenly loved that peculiar reality, and those white ephemeral phantoms. I began to think pleasant mountain thoughts.

But my bright thoughts, at any moment, illuminated, as by the sun, often darken. Moods, like dark clouds, can drift across and block the sunshine. It was true at that moment, true always. Nostalgia, too, (in which I’m indulging now) can turn sorrowful, especially over memories of wasted time. I’ve wasted a lot of time since that day, and squandered a great deal of mental and emotional resources that should have gone into writing. (Facebook and blogs did not exist then, and are still not the best forums – or fora – for a true, which is to say, “professional” writer.)

That cloud-hidden moment was around the month I turned fifty. It was mid-life and, since I’d started my broadcast career late( at thirty-two) I was more or less at mid-career (though I’d put in prior years as a newspaper reporter).

I’d ultmately work until right around my 69th birthday in 2015. That was in the future.

But at that moment in that little college library, I wasn’t even sure I’d resume my broadcast career. I wasn’t sure what I was going to do. I knew I couldn’t stay in the mountains, among the clouds, barely getting by on the salary of a tiny mountain radio station located in a tripple-wide trailer. (Yes, it was fun, but it wasn’t the time to make a career of it.)

Either during that library visit or on another day peacefully among the stacks, I’d been reading about the writer Flannery O’Connor — about how she’d “accepted” her vocation as a writer — not easy for her, wracked by the degenerative disease lupus and destined to die at age 39.

I had pondered what it means to “accept” one’s vocation, even when it’s difficult, but when it nonetheless feels like the only path to fulfillment, or what analysts call self-actualization (whatever that means). I had read of many writers saying this about their “vocation”–that it felt like accepting its joys and burdens was the only life path forward. That’s doubtless true of any vocation, but writers of any genre at any level often speak of the trial of filling that white blank space before them out of the sometimes meager resources of their imagination or memory, nonetheless feeling compelled to do so. I once heard the writer Catherine Anne Porter, during an interview, say she’d often felt she’d have been much happier with another vocation and more than once vowed to give up writing –only to find herself writing out that vow. Jessamyn West wrote that good days practicing her craft were like heavenly bliss, while bad days were equivalent to working off any punishment she might have earned with her sins. Sports writer Red Smith famously said, with beautiful sarcasm, that writing wasn’t difficult; you just sat in front of the blank page and opened a vein.

One can too easily exaggerate those difficulties — to oneself or to others. It’s a cheap excuse for giving up.

And a writer might work forever in obscurity. Franz Kafka asked a friend to burn all his writings, many of them incomplete, after he died. Fortnately, the friend did not honor that promise.

On or about that mountain day, meditating among drifting clouds, I learned very belatedly about the necessity of “accepting” a writer’s vocation, even though I might die before I got any good at it, or got any readers.

But soon thereafter, I continued my journey north and resumed my broadcast career and mostly neglected this true vocation, making it into an occasional avocation. TV news writing was easy. Real writing is hard.

Now, in what little time is left, I must “accept” my writer’s vocation. I might even enjoy it.

And I will be grateful for that brief moment of illumination, beguiled and consoled among drifting clouds by my drifting thoughts at 3700 feet above sea level.

And I must write.

GOODBYE, BARCELONA

(Fourth and final installment in the Barcelona Quartet)

It was raining hard in Florida’s Panhandle the day I labored to recover these fond memories. I was staying in a borrowed waterfront cottage. It was August ,2016. Up in Massachusetts, my sister was dying of cancer, the world, then and now, was wracked by war and violence. The Gulf of Mexico was gray, roiled to the horizon, rollers breaking white against the rocks along the coastal road only fifty yards away. It was a road that, in a matter of days, was destined to be broken apart and washed away by a Hurricane Hermine.

I would be gone by then – done recalling that day, fifty years before when I left the city of Barcelona….

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + +

From my 19-cent travel notebook:

“The train is very dark as I write this.”

I’m 19. The train, a Spanish train, is still in the station. About to head north to France, July, 1966. It began moving suddenly….clack-clack …clack-clack…. Those old tracks that would take me to the railroad border town of Port-Bou. I’d been a stranger in a strange land.

There is a statue of Columbus in Barcelona along a wide waterfront boulevard. Columbus is high up on a thin, ornate pedestal, pointing out to sea. To the New World, presumably (although he’s actually pointing toward Algeria).

The New World was far, far away from this Old World. I was homesick.

Remembering Barcelona’s brief encounters — too brief, just two days — I wrote: The view was wonderful, the gardens beautiful. Not another word about those gardens, that view. And why no mention of Antoni Gaudi’s sacred, eccentric Sagrada Familia basilica? – “with its profusion of decorated spires and neo-Gothic arches and its bright, throbbing colors, intricately detailed sacred carvings and riotous modernists stained glass…”as one writer so beautifully wrote of it anonymously in a journal I’ve since stumbled upon. The Church of the Holy Family would have dominated any view. Did I miss it, that wild, beautiful work in progress, begun in 1882 — called sensual, spiritual, whimsical, exuberant. said to resemble sugar loafs and anthills?

Some hills I do remember from my brief tour — mounds of rubble in vacant lots. Were they lingering scars from Spain’s Civil War? Barcelona had briefly belonged to the Anarchists during those terrible times. Peaceful and equitable in many ways, or so it seemed initially to George Orwell, writing of it in Homage to Catalonia. He would become disillusioned with the Spanish Republican Loyalists.

Chance observations became indelible memories. A taxi, horn blaring, rushing a sick child to a hospital. Three family members, late for their train, spilling out of a taxi with their luggage, racing frantically into the station. I remember the heat. I feel as though I just crawled four hours through a field, I wrote as I wandered. But I have only unrecorded memories of the night before, desperately lost, unable to locate my youth hostel, wandering in darkness along a steep hill street leading up to wherever one boarded additional transportation to The Benedictine Abbey and Holy Grotto of Montserrat, trolleys noisily ascending and descending under the trees. I only glimpsed them– but that glimpse would become one of those indelible memories — children and their clerical guardians packed aboard those trolleys – nuns and young priests, pilgrims all. (I need someday, to figure out how those pilgrims on those particular trolleys were managing to make it miles away to the Abbey.)

When I was lost, I was praying, and prayer brought me back to my hostel, finally. May I always go on praying, because, I often feel lost.

I’d wandered lost for hours and will never forget that. Barcelona preserves in me the necessary sense of a lost and searching soul.

On that last day, I met a Boston University student from Connecticut. Forget his name, or how we met. He’d be sailing to Majorca. I’d never heard of Majorca. He told me about it as we walked through Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter; medieval churches, prayers in stone. He embarked for the island, said farewell. Alone, I explored the city some more, thinking of Majorca. (Thinking as I write, of him, that brief companion. I also, very briefly while alone, encounterd a couple of fellows from Wrentham, Mass.)

I wrote: Bought a post card in a shop, the woman very helpful. Finally, boldly I was navigating the city that had so intimidated me, my American smile a thin substitute for rudimentary Spanish. Had a Coke in a café. Wrote out a postcard to my godmother. I was at ease, however briefly, in the city in which I’d once felt eternally forsaken. But still undeniably a stranger in a strange land.

I wrote:

Took the ferry to the breakwater. Mediterranean very beautiful.

There was a little café out there.

Had shrimp and Vina Pomal for 173 peseta.

Light-headed, I walked along the breakwater, found a bench. Thinking of home, I watched a huge gray ship of the U.S. Sixth Fleet — possibly a light cruiser — pass close by in bright sunlight, heading for open water, all its sailors “manning the rails” in their dress whites, the U.S. Navy’s mandatory ritual of departure upon sailing out of any port. Did I wave to my fellow Americans? Did any of them wave back? Do any of them today remember seeing that lone fellow countryman on the jetty as they left? Waving goodbye?

It was time for me to leave port as well. And to say goodbye.

In near darkness on the train, I wrote: I had to buy an ice cream to get rid of the last of my change (Spanish pesetas). Not changeable across the border. The train lurching forward. The station, the city fading. Sun setting on the factories outside Barcelona….Martini Rossi billboard passes by. Fields with bundles of hay. The fields getting dark. We have come to a stop amid children’s voices in the distance. The train moving again. Luggage rocking, more dark fields….

clack -clack….clack-clack….”

+ + + + + + + + + + +

The rain had stopped at this point on Alligator Point back in August, 2016. I was done recalling and copying these memories out of my 19-cent notebook. The light was fading, wind rising. Palm trees, live oak, tossing wildly. The sky overhead a pastiche of El Greco’s View of Toledo, taking me back to Spain.

A guy in a cowboy hat, earlier that week while I was pulled up to the gas pump in a neigboring town, spotted my Massachusetts license plate and asked with a sly turn of the head, “You from Baws-ton?”

“Yup, originally.”

“You talk funny?”

“Yup. I pahk the cah.” He laughed. I laughed. Happy once again to be a stranger in a strange land, even though it was my land. Happy to be in a place where people talk to you. Sorry that time was passing so quickly.

It’s kept passing. That was nine years ago.

I must go back to Barcelona someday. Must see Gaudi’s Basilica. Filled with blessed spaces. Attend Mass there. Sanctus, Sanctus, Sanctus.

Then, maybe,I’ll also sail out to Majorca, see its cliffs, it deep blue coves….but, above all, see all of that city I barely glimsed so memorably, as in a magic lantern, when I was so young.

Goodbye, Barcelona. Goodbye.

.

THE DANISH KID

(Part 3 of the 4-Part Barcelona quartet)

Mid-summer, 1966. Sparse, elliptical entries dot my flimsy 19-cent travel notebook from that period. Especially entries about my two-days in a broken down Barcelona youth hostel: Voices in the barren dusty hall below…. (sound of) a broom against the hard floor…children’s voices outside…it is cool and cloudy….I must write some letters and determine how I will get back to France….

Thereafter, unaided memory and only a few random, barely legible pen scratches help me reconstruct the moment in the wee hours when I woke to find a leg dangling by my bunk, then another, then both legs wiggling down to the floor below, using, if I recall accurately, my small suitcases for a stepping stone. Whoever’s legs these were had obviously missed curfew – probably a midnight curfew — and was climbing into the dormitory through a window. This particular window, right by my bed, had a broken screen, flapping loose, making possible this stealthy, illicit entrance. (Small wonder the dormitory was hungry with mosquitoes.) My initial annoyance was tempered by the memory of wandering lost in the city the night before. I could just as easily have missed curfew. A tolerant sense of fraternity seemed in order.

Presently one, perhaps two other youths slipped through the same window and quickly found their bunks. But the original arrivee, a lean and frenetic youth, circled briefly and restlessly in the dark, the hot red dot of a lighted cigarette arcing occasionally up to his mouth.

Someone smoking? In this fire trap? Again, tolerance, compounded by exhaustion, must have overridden outrage or alarm. I dozed off. Everyone else was snoring.

I met this smoker and curfew-breaker in the morning over the hostel’s meager bread and hot cocoa breakfast. He was a Danish boy about my age, his name forgotten. I don’t recall him smoking again, in or out of the hostel. Indoors, in sight of hostel proprietors, this would have violated strict rules – though this fellow seemed the kind of soul who was careless about rules: high-spirited, affable, dark blond, about nineteen. I don’t recall anything we spoke about, nor do I remember asking him the reason for his peculiar late night entrance. He was outgoing and lively in conversation, an ice-breaker among strangers. At some point, both of us must have befriended a young Scottish hostel guest. My notebook says: The Dane and Scot rode with me to the Placa Cataluña. I’d doubtless heard of the Placa’s splendor and decided to invite a hostel guest – the Scott – to travel there with me for lunch. By now, the Dane had gone off somewhere.

Sadly, I have no memory of this Scot. It’s obvious he struck me as a congenial travel companion. But once again, the Danish boy made himself memorable by rushing toward us as we headed for the door. Where were we going? He was eager and curious to know. Could he go, too? I realized then that, for all his sociability, this Danish kid was a solitary, perhaps lonely, traveler. He urged us to “wait a minute, will you?” speaking that axiomatic English phrase clearly and deliberately, making it unintentionally sound like a demand.

We must have traveled by taxi. I’m sure we had lunch. Sadly, I have no memory, written or otherwise, of the Placa Cataluña’s grand, storied ambiance and architecture or of my conversation with these newfound friends. Tweaking my subconscious, however, I believe I can see us in flashes – three strangers at an outdoor café table, the Danish boy doing much of the talking. Or did he become more reticent as the hours wore on?

Later, packed up, briefly idle, ready to depart the hostel for a final walk around central Barcelona before catching a night train to France, I was again approached by the Dane. He asked if I’d join him for a (quick) game of chess, if such a thing were possible. I agreed out of courtesy. We pulled chairs up to a ping-pong table and he removed a square plastic novelty from his belt where it had hung by a little chain. It was essentially a puzzles — a chess puzzle — with sliding black and white pieces designated as kings, queens, bishops, rooks, knights and pawns. He put this minute chessboard between us at one corner of the table. Then, speaking of puzzles, there followed a puzzling deliberative silence of a mere second or two. Without looking at me, the Dane suddenly asked, “do you like boys or girls?”

A very peculiar question at a time such as this. “Girls,” I answered quickly and with considerable emphasis, still puzzled, but suspicious — whereupon the Dane, giving a little chortle, abruptly flipped the tiny chessboard so that the tiny white squares faced me and the black squares faced him. He muttered something to the effect that his inquiry was merely a means of determining who’d play with which colored chess pieces.

Really? Why not just say, ‘do you prefer black or white?’

Was this just another among the multitude of trans-lingual misunderstandings or trans-cultural vagaries I’d occasionally encountered during my European travels? Musing over this antic moment after many years, I can’t say for certain, naïve as that sounds.

But, no matter. Only one or two rooks or pawns had slid about the miniature plastic board before we both, with a glance at our watches, declared it time to move on – I to the heart of Barcelona for a final look; him to wherever wild Danes went in that wide open decade.

His was among my briefest human encounters of that summer, although also among the more memorable. I now and then think of him – even say a little prayer for him — whenever I see a window with a broken screen.

LOST IN BARCELONA

(Sequal to NIGHT TRAIN TO BARCELONA)

On a Spanish morning fifty-eight years ago, in my nineteenth year before God, in a ramshackle European youth hostel, a Danish boy asked me if I liked boys or girls. And my mind, lifted up in a prairie whirwind, instantly flew off to Oz. And I thought: No, Dorothy, you and I are definitely not in Kansas anymore.

But let me begin at the beginning of that particular chapter of my travel chronicles which took place during a serendipitous mere 48-hour visit to the city with the rhapsodic name: Bar-ce-lo-na.

Among other things, I got lost there. It was July, 1966.

My Continental journey (as recorded in my 19-cent notebook) had brought me to the French-Spanish border.

I wrote :

Night train from Paris. Traveled all night. Awoke in my couchette. We had stopped; light crept under the drawn shade. There were only a few people left in the compartment of six couchettes. The Pyrenees. Baking heat. Arrive at Port-Bou, French-Spanish border. Hungry, I buy a ham sandwich, chips, and a coke in the little station. The gauge of the tracks changes. Therefore I must change trains. The Spanish train bumps rhythmically, slowly, along…clack-clack…clack-clack….Glimpses of the vivid blue Mediterranean. Stony remains on a hillside. They resemble castle ruins. Long, slow, bumpy ride continues. The train was very old. I kept hoping we’d pass by the sea again, but there were only the hills and dusty fields, small villas, seemingly abandoned, sitting in the baking sun. Farmers working the fields with horse-drawn plows, women driving donkey carts over narrow, winding roads.

There’s a young Swede in my compartment. Bound for the home of a wealthy Spanish family. He’ll tutor their young daughter.

clack-clack…clack-clack….

It’s getting hotter. Barcelona’s poverty-stricken environs roll by. There were dumping areas and factories and rows of shacks. Midday clouds darken crooked rows of scarred, broken rail side houses. Laundry hangs limply from sagging lines, lifts gently in some filthy breeze. Grim factories come next. Odors like cheap perfume, then like medicine. They roll into our open window on waves of hot air. We lurch to rest in the station. It is dark and gloomy. I bid the Swede goodbye and good luck, get a taxi to my youth hostel. I’d written down the address from a hostel directory. Tip the driver. (Grossly over-tipped him. His good fortune. I’m just learning the deal with the Spanish peseta.)

Imagine the Alamo after the siege. That is a tiny exaggeration. But to this day, recalling its stucco exterior and abysmal state, it’s how I remember that hostel on the Avenida Virgen de Monserrat. For about 10 peseta. It was home for two nights.

Once settled, I took a long, long walk, all the way into the center of the city. Evening in Barcelona changed my mood. She glowed as Paris had glowed. I had found one of the central squares where the people, all in all, seemed ripe with Mediterranean amiability and the city itself bustling and happy. Then as evening arrived and the lights came on, I came upon a playground filled with children and their mothers watching over them. Oh, how I would soon need a mother watching over me….

I rode the Metro, walked some more. But I’d failed to take the hostel’s address, or even note its location, except to remember that it was up a hill. Could there be more than one hill in Barcelona? (Dozens, you idiot!)

Darkness found me walking up one hill, down another, lost, my Spanish shamefully limited to “si” and “no”. The word “hostel” meant nothing to anyone I met. The hostel had a curfew. As I walked I began to face a terrible prospect: locked out once I found the hostel, or sleeping on the street. I simply had no idea where I was and, ast noted, I spoke no Spanish.

Rain was threatening as I walked. Two rats pursued one another on a gravel patch. Cat’s eyes gleamed in darkness. People stood in the pallid light of doorways. I pass houses both lavish and poor. Heard a child crying, saw women laughing in a brightly lighted kitchen. Does no one speak English? I saw a couple kissing in the dark. I wasn’t going to bother them. (In my notebook I have written, “the Spanish women and girls are the most beautiful I have ever seen.”)

Some streets were paved, others were dust and dirt. Trolleys squealed slowly down one tree-canopied hillside avenue bearing nuns, priests and children from their visit to the Montserrat Benedictine Abbey and Holy Grotto at the top. (Seeing them, hearing them, I believe I prayed. I was becoming oh, so disoriented, isolated and desperate.)

The rain began, softly. I came upon police lining a wide, bright boulevard. Some dignitary would be passing (was Franco visiting?) I approached one cop; a friendly face under the menacing visor and chin strap. The language barrier frustrated us both. The rain was suddenly heavy. The cop must have directed me to a taxi. My notebook says the (taxi) driver was whistling an American tune. He took me to a police station. A kindly desk sergeant, gesturing, suggested a route. Seems I was mercifully close to my hostel at last. More walking. The rain stopped, another mercy. The streets gleamed.

Finally! I came upon a dark tree-lined passageway. My broken down Alamo of a hostel was at the end of it, looking like Shangri-La to me at that moment. I drank Orange Fanta from a vending machine, found peace and, ultimately, sleep in a bunk bed, though I was preyed on by mosquitoes.

The following night I would wake in darkness to find a leg dangling by my bunk. Someone climbing through a window.

This would be the aforementioned Danish boy.

But that’s another story.

And it will be my next story from those Spanish moments during those long-ago hours in that unforgettable summer of 1966.